From Broome’s glitz back to a little dose of heaven

7th July, 2021: There’s always someone to give you “good advice” as you travel – and sometimes it’s good, sometimes not. So, after leaving Broome, we turn off our intended destination near the tip of Cape Leveque, to check out a campsite on the way – Gnylmarung, run by an indigenous family – or community, we never do quite find out.

After driving 25km over teeth chattering corrugations we decide we should at least stay two nights. We have found Charlie’s heaven and nothing can wipe the smile off Ted’s face. 

Dogs are off-leash (“I’ve never had a dog fight in this camp” says an elder as we arrive), the beach is wide, with a ten metre tide and the water is clear as champagne.

We’re camped among lush vegetation the beach is only metres away and everyone around us are as relaxed as we soon are!  How different from Cable Beach, with all its artifices, traffic and tensions, and the sunsets are just as good!

We’ve booked for two nights, but we extend to four and then to six – maybe we’ll never leave. We swim every day (at high tide – otherwise you have to walk for a kilometre), make instant camp friends and learn each others’ life stories into the night.

From here we’re heading, after a couple of stops, across the Tanami Desert (about 1,000 km of corrugations we hear), so we might as well enjoy the luxury while we can.

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We’ll be really sad to leave Gnylmarung.